Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a historic church in Milan, Italy.
The complex is best known for housing Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic masterpiece, The Last Supper, but it also boasts a rich history, captivating architecture, and a collection of other artistic treasures that make it a must-see destination for anyone visiting Milan.
A duke’s vision
The church was commissioned in the early 1460s by Francesco I Sforza, the Duke of Milan, who envisioned a grand church to replace a smaller chapel dedicated to Saint Mary of the Graces.
Construction of the Dominican convent began in 1463 and was completed in 1469, led by architect Guiniforte Solari.
From church to mausoleum
Duke Ludovico Sforza (‘Il Moro’) decided to expand the church during the 1490s with the intention of turning it into a mausoleum for his family.
This change in purpose led to the involvement of renowned Renaissance architect Donato Bramante, who transformed the complex by adding features like semi-circular apses, a drum-shaped dome, a refectory, and a cloister.
Ironically, only his wife, Beatrice d’Este, and Ludovico were buried there.
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The Last Supper’s home
Nestled within the western side of the Dominican convent at Santa Maria delle Grazie, the refectory is the historic and spiritual home of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, The Last Supper.
The mural, measuring 8.8 meters by 4.6 meters (28.9 feet by 15.1 feet), portrays the dramatic moment described in the Gospel of John when Jesus announces, “One of you will betray me.”
This pivotal scene is brought to life through Leonardo’s intricate composition, where each apostle reacts with gestures and expressions that reflect their inner turmoil and relationship with Christ.
Note: While entry to Santa Maria delle Grazie is free, entering the museum, which displays The Last Supper, is a paid experience.
Duomo di Milano: Since Milan Cathedral is just 20 minutes by walk from Santa Maria delle Grazie, some tourists visit them on the same day. Find out how to go from Di Milano to Santa Maria. If you don’t have much time and can only visit one, find out why Santa Maria delle Grazie is a better option.
Not a true fresco
The Last Supper is not a true fresco. Leonardo da Vinci created the painting on drywall instead of applying paint to wet plaster, as typical for a fresco. He painted the artwork using tempera and oil on two layers of prepared gypsum on the wall of the Santa Maria delle Grazie refectory.
Leonardo’s reasons for using this technique were twofold:
Flexibility: It allowed him more time to work on the piece, make revisions, and add intricate details, a level of control not possible with traditional frescoes that require rapid execution due to the quick-drying plaster.
Luminosity: This method allowed Leonardo to achieve a greater range of colors and a more luminous effect than could be achieved with frescoes.
However, this innovative approach had a significant drawback – fragility. It made the painting highly susceptible to deterioration, as it failed to adhere properly to the drywall.
Wartime survival
The Last Supper narrowly escaped destruction during World War II thanks to meticulous protection efforts and a stroke of luck.
On August 15, 1943, a Royal Air Force bomb struck just 24 meters (80 feet) from the painting in Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The blast destroyed the roof of the refectory and other parts of the church, leaving the north wall—home to The Last Supper—exposed to potential ruin.
However, Leonardo’s painting survived because the wall had been reinforced with sandbags, mattresses, pillows, wooden scaffolding, and metal supports.
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A second masterpiece
Santa Maria delle Grazie’s refectory also houses another significant artwork: Donato Montorfano’s The Crucifixion.
Painted in 1495, this fresco graces the south wall of the refectory, directly facing The Last Supper on the north wall.
The Crucifixion depicts the scene of Jesus’s crucifixion, a central theme in Christian art.
Unlike Leonardo’s experimental Last Supper, Montorfano employed the traditional fresco technique, resulting in vibrant colors that have remained well-preserved for over 500 years.
Chapels and artistic patronage
Santa Maria delle Grazie contains seven chapels on each side aisle, historically used by prominent Milanese families for burial and private prayer.
These chapels showcase frescoes by renowned artists like Gaudenzio Ferrari, offering a glimpse into the artistic patronage of the time.
A stolen Titian
Santa Maria delle Grazie was once home to a significant masterpiece by Titian, The Crowning with Thorns. This dramatic painting, created around 1542, depicts the poignant moment of Christ’s suffering as soldiers mockingly crown him with thorns.
In 1797, during Napoleon’s Italian campaign, French troops looted numerous artworks, including The Crowning with Thorns.
This masterpiece was taken from the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie and transported to Paris. It eventually became part of the extensive art collection housed at the Louvre Museum, where it remains today.
A place of tranquility
The Cloister of the Frogs (Chiostro delle Rane) is part of the complex and offers visitors a serene retreat from the bustling city of Milan.
At the heart of the cloister lies a peaceful garden featuring a central round basin with a charming fountain.
The basin is affectionately named after the small bronze frogs perched around its edges, which give the cloister its unique moniker.
A UNESCO World Heritage site
In 1980, Santa Maria delle Grazie was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its extraordinary blend of art, architecture, and history.
The complex earned this recognition for the fantastic work done by architect Donato Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper.
While the building is celebrated for its harmonious proportions, elegant brickwork, and majestic dome, Da Vinci’s masterpiece is celebrated for its profound impact on Western art and its unique depiction of a pivotal moment in Christian theology.